DIY

Building a Garden Bench

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Gardening has pretty much wound down for the year, but I can’t stop looking for things to do that bring me outside and into the garden. My most recent venture was to build and install a bench in the garden – a good off-season task.

Last summer I was driving down the road and slowed as I passed a yard sale. I spotted a large piece of white marble, so I pulled over and went to investigate. The marble was about 5 feet long, 14 inches wide and about one and a half inches thick. I like all kinds of stone so I bought it (for $10) – even though I wasn’t quite sure what I would do with it. It spent the rest of the summer leaning against a tree in my yard.

I decided that I would like to use the stone as the top to a bench. I knew full well that stone is not fun to sit on for a long time, but that a piece of marble would be a great visual draw – it would be visible from a long distance and it would encourage visitors to the garden to wander that way. I found a spot near a part of my brook that burbles loudly, and that is near a large “umbrella plant” (Darmera peltata) that is planted over some of my late sister’s ashes. It’s a nice place to sit and contemplate.

While in France this fall I saw a number of stone benches, and in each case the top stone was supported by other stones. But I couldn’t find stones that were the right size to create a stable base for the top, so I decided to use logs instead.

Drawshave for removing barkUsing railroad ties or pressure-treated wood would have been a long-lasting and easy solution, but I didn’t want their chemicals leaching into the soil or my brook. Ideally I would have found some 10 inch diameter logs of cedar or locust, both of which will resist rot well, but none were to be found. What I did have was a native cherry tree that had been blown over last winter and was still waiting to be cut up. I cut several pieces to 22 inch lengths and selected two that had good straight cuts.

Rot occurs first in wooden posts right below the surface of the bark. I’ve found that even cedar fence posts last longer if skinned before putting them in the soil, and that the splash zone – the first 6 inches or so – also rot before the rest of the post. So I used a 2-handled draw shave (a carpenter’s tool for removing wood) and took off most off the bark. I like the look of the bark, so I left some on the upper part of each support post.

After peeling the logs I painted each with boiled linseed oil (that I use on tool handles) to repel moisture. I found that the ends of the logs sucked up lots of oil fast, but that the sides were less receptive. I gave everything 3 coats of oil. I used environmentally friendly, natural oil rather than a chemical.

Oiled log with spikesI had purchased some 8-inch long spikes for the project, and drove 3 spikes into each log near the base of the logs – I measured up 3 inches, and drove them in about 3 inches with a sledge hammer. The spikes stuck out like rays, and serve to add stability and make each log more difficult to tip over once in the hole and covered with rocks.

I measured my dining room chairs, and saw that the seats are about 16 inches off the ground. I decided to make this seat a little lower – about 14 inches. Given the thickness of the marble, that meant having 12 inches of post above the soil surface – allowing me to bury 10 inches of each post. It’s important that this piece of marble (which weighs 100 pounds or so) not fall over.

Filling the hole with stonesI decided to place the two support posts 20 inches apart for maximum stability. I put steel rods in the ground to mark the locations, and used my shovel to create a 2-foot diameter circle around each rod. After removing the sod I dug down about 18 inches, then added 4 inches of crushed stone in the bottom for drainage, and an inch or two of sand on top of that. The sand made it so that I could more easily adjust the depth or angle of the two support posts.

I used a 4-foot carpenter’s level and a five-inch wide plank to make sure the two supports were set so that the top would be level. Then I filled the hole with rocks roughly the size of a loaf of bread and added more gravel and sand to fill in around them. Finally, I carefully set the marble top on the posts. It is stable, and the good drainage means it should last several years.

Marble BenchIt was a chilly day but I treated myself to a cold beverage and sat down to contemplate my success and admire my Merrill magnolia tree. The magnolia is about 25 feet away from the bench and covered with furry buds that will burst forth in late April with lovely white blossoms. And then along came Sam the cat, who proceeded to sit down and give the bench his paw of approval.

Henry Homeyer can be contacted at henry.homeyer@comcast.net or P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746

Gifts homemade and otherwise

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Visiting family and friends, holiday parties, and Yankee swaps all rely on, and celebrate, food. It’s typically special food, traditional food, and “secret” recipes. It’s also a bountiful time of year and a formal opportunity to say thank you. A low-cost, homemade gift from your kitchen will be appreciated long after the celebrations are done. Here’s what I’m cooking up this year to say thank you to family, friends, and hosts.

Cookies in a Jar

Easy, quick, and inexpensive because I buy the ingredients in bulk. Buy a raft of mason jars and you can make a dozen gifts in a morning. Tier measured, dry ingredients in a jar, add a recipe gift tag and you’re done. The tiering adds interest to the mixture. The gift receiver need only add the wet ingredients (typically eggs and oil or butter) for a batch of custom cookies from you. Tip: Since you’re buying in bulk, don’t skimp on the salient flavors: buy the best chocolate, like Lindt, and toast and cool nuts before adding to the jar. This year, I’m making Chocolate Pecan and Pfeffernusse.

Root flavored oils

These may be my favorite to make and give because the flavors extend the tastes of fall well into the winter. They add zest to salads and make a quick “sauce” for pan-seared foods. Ginger, horseradish, and beet oils are sublime and keep for 2-4 weeks in the refrigerator. Really bulbs, you can also try the alliums, like garlic, leeks, and chives; although they should be used within 2 weeks. Bottle in sterilized, decorative pint containers or canning jars. For every pint of canola oil, add 1/4 cup of peeled, chopped root. Simmer for 30 minutes; cool. Strain (or not), jar, refrigerate. Tip: Beet oil is best made with beet juice, if you have a juicer. Let caution be your guide when storing oils for extended periods of time.

Sugar plums

Traditional “plums” were actually sugarcoated coriander seeds. Eventually the recipe came to include other spices, nuts and dried fruit. This recipe makes six dozen, enough for boxing up by the half dozen for 12 gifts and a few for the giver. A food processor makes quick work of chopping the nuts and dried fruits, although I prefer to chop the fruit by hand.

1 cup whole peeled almonds or chestnuts (blanch the latter)
1 cup macadamia or pine nuts (or sub walnuts)
1⁄4 cup honey or agave nectar
2 tsp grated orange or lemon zest
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground allspice
1⁄2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
a few twists of the pepper mill
1 cup finely chopped dried apricots
1 cup finely chopped pitted dates
1 cup confectioners’ sugar

  1. Preheat oven to 400°. Toast nuts for 10 minutes. Cool, then finely chop.
  2. Meanwhile, combine sweetener, zest, and spices in a bowl. Add nuts and fruits and mix very well. Wet hands make quick mixers.
  3. Working with wet hands, roll 1 tsp of the mixture into 72+ balls. Roll balls in sugar, then refrigerate in single layers between sheets of waxed paper in airtight containers for up to 1 month. The flavors ripen during storage. Tip: Re-dust with sugar before boxing as gifts.

Spice Rub

Only strong flavors hold up to grilling and oven roasting. Seasoning rubs are popular because they’re easy, effective, and a little goes a long way. One half cup of rub makes a substantial gift for seasoning four or five cuts of meat or poultry. I limit this rub to six spices and a hint of rosemary or winter savory. If you’re lucky enough to have fresh herbs that you’ve dried, the flavor will be more robust. Combine 1/2 cup each of cinnamon, cardamon, cumin, coriander, paprika, and 1/3 cup chili powder. Add 1/4 dried rosemary and, up to 2 tablespoons of salt, if desired. Divide into six portions for six gifts. Store in sterilized, decorative bottles or the smallest canning jars. Tip: Buy your spices in bulk at a health food store or from the ever-resourceful Atlantic Spice Company in North Truro, MA.

Jams and Preserves

You may already have a collection of gifts in the larder from the summer and fall harvests. This year we went red: red currant jelly, mint strawberry jam, and beet-cranberry conserve. We’re working on a chestnut/walnut preserve. If you’re new to preserving, Ball makes the excellent Canning Discovery Kit for under $10. It’s not too late to start with some easy recipes like Apricot Chutney or Bread and Butter Pickles.

Accessorizing with bouquet garni

Here in horticultural zone 6A, a couple of light frosts have not deterred my herb garden from producing. A bouquet garni of still-hearty thymes, winter savory, and sages tied up with string makes a quaint and usable “bow” for any gift. Tip: Tie a few together to freshen a closet during the winter months.

10 New Lives for Old Stuff

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Reusing and repurposing the stuff you already have is an eco-smart solution for a simpler lifestyle. Some call it upcycling.  It’s better than buying more stuff that’s cheaply made and may not last. Here are ten of our favorite, often surprising, ways to give new life to old stuff.

cork corks

Yes, they can become cork boards, trivets, wreaths, crafty stamps and placecard holders (who uses these anymore??). But, we like using the buoyancy of a cork to locate a bouquet garni in a stew pot or a bag o’ mulling spices in hot apple cider. Simply tie the cork to the string of the bag. It’s much easier to retrieve that hot, dripping bunch of herbs or spices since the cork stays cool.

Our favorite reuse for cork corks though is as garden mulch. Corks retain moisture and, when mixed with the soil, can add tilth to help your garden better survive periods of drought. Grind up the corks in a food processor (preferably using a blade that needs replacement) and dig it into your garden beds.

Of course, you could always use them as corks for your homemade wine, vinegars and oils. ;)

old books

We love this idea of turning old books into planters.

banana peels

Slipping aside, bananas are naturally high in potassium which encourages plant growth. Use the peel or puree the entire banana and bury with soil. Especially good for roses. Also, get this: tape a piece of the peel over a splinter. The enzymes will help dislodge the splinter and heal the wound. Similarly, this tip will help remove a wart. No kidding.

stubby pillar or votive candles

Use these in the sewing room as pin cushions. Great for distinguishing different sized or specialty pins and needles.

old toothbrushes

These little brushes are the perfect size for so many cleaning tasks. In the kitchen, remove the grundge from the refrigerator’s door seal, your sink fixtures and the knobs on the stove. Clean out your dehumidifier with a vinegar and baking soda paste. This solution works well on tile grout, too.  Soft bristle brushes make an excellent mushroom brush to gently remove the dirt. Sanitize them first in the dishwasher, or by soaking them overnight in hydrogen peroxide or vinegar, and allow to air dry.

pill bottles

Great storage containers.  Paint them if you want, or not. Use them for saving seeds, dried herbs, precious saffron threads. Hide extra keys; organize jewelry making  and crafting supplies; paper clips, thumb drives, those little wrenches for IKEA furniture. Create a ready-to-go travel kit, both more economical and eco-friendly.

dress shirts into pillow covers

Even Martha likes it!. See her instructions here.

cds

Hang them in the yard to deter deer and other creatures who are inhibited by the moving light. We have created a “curtain” of them that acts as a divider between the yard and the woods. (It really works.)  Cover, decorate, or paint them to make coasters. Apply felt pads if you like.

electric shaver

For the handyperson, this is the only stud finder you’ll ever need. It will make a different sound when you hit a stud.

croquet stakes, bats, and broomsticks

Sturdy, rigid garden stakes that can be employed individually or in groups of three to corral flopping perennials like Baptisia and peonies.

Cut Flowers

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Now that tulips and other spring flowers are gracing our homes as cut flowers, you can prolong their lives by adding two tablespoons each of white vinegar and sugar in a quart of water. Better than a penny, an aspirin and just as effective as dipping the cut stems into a solution of baking soda and water. Enjoy!

Easy pea trellising

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Tpea trellisinghis trellis is a snap (!) It harkens from centuries old England–the best garden tools haven’t really changed over the years. GreenYankee assembled this charming support in less than half an hour, using old lathing discovered in the back of the barn.

Cut four 42” lengths of 1/4” x 2” stock (cedar preferred as it weathers well). Drill four 1/4” holes in each post, beginning about 1” from the top and spacing them about 5” apart. If you’d like to paint or protect the wood, make an eco-friendly, water-based choice.

Stick the posts into the ground at the corners of a rectangle that measures about 1’ x 4’. Cut 16 lengths of ordinary cotton string (butcher’s twine is good). Although the length of string will vary slightly as you move down the post, you can start with an 8’ length and make adjustments if you like. Pass the string through the holes in the short sides of the rectangle as shown, tie them together and stake them in the ground with a stick, tent stake, or earth staple. Now that the two ends of the trellis are secured, you can string the long sides, tie them off and stake them as shown. Simple, easy, effective. Let us know what you think, or send us a pic to share with the Green Yankee community.

This trellis is a snap (!) It harkens from centuries old England–the best garden tools haven’t really changed over the years. GreenYankee assembled this charming support in less than half an hour, using old lathing discovered in the back of the barn.

Cut four 42” lengths of 1/4” x 2” stock (cedar preferred as it weathers well). Drill four 1/4” holes in each post, beginning about 1” from the top and spacing them about 5” apart. If you’d like to paint or protect the wood, make an eco-friendly, water-based choice.

Stick the posts into the ground at the corners of a rectangle that measures about 1’ x 4’. Cut 16 lengths of ordinary cotton string (butcher’s twine is good). Although the length of string will vary slightly as you move down the post, you can start with an 8’ length and make adjustments if you like. Pass the string through the holes in the short sides of the rectangle as shown, tie them together and stake them in the ground with a stick, tent stake, or earth staple. Now that the two ends of the trellis are secured, you can string the long sides, tie them off and stake them as shown. Simple, easy, effective. Let us know what you think, or send us a pic to share with the Green Yankee community.