Seasonal Tip

Gardening: A Metaphor for Life

in New England: Quick and Cheap, Seasonal Tip
flower gardening, gardening, wildflowers

Gardening can be considered a metaphor for life. Some gardeners like their gardens –and their lives – simple and predictable. They plant things that they know will succeed and look good: daffodils, daylilies, marigolds, purple cone flowers and such. I grow all those things, but I like to take some risks, too. After all, I could be run over by a bus before the end of the growing season (though my mother did a good job of teaching me to look both ways before crossing). And I want to have the joys of growing special plants that are not necessarily hardy here.

I’m a plant collector and get great joy in growing plants that are outside their climatic zone (or that require special conditions) and seeing them do well. Taking a risk in the garden is different than racing motorcycles or skiing down the north face of Mt. Washington. Yes, I did once spend $75 on a yellow ladyslipper that did not make it through the winter because a dog dug it up, exposing the roots. But that was not personally perilous. I recommend taking some risks in the garden.

My most recent ”risk” was planting a shrub variously called, spicebush, Carolina allspice or sweet bubby. Those names are from my bible of woody plants, Manual of Woody Landscape Plants by Michael Dirr. Sweet bubby – that’s worth planting just for the name! Its Latin name is Calycanthus floridus. Just as plants with botanical names including canadensis indicate northern origins, plants with floridus indicate southern plants. So it may not do well here.

I am a sucker for plants in bloom. I was recently at EC Brown’s nursery in Thetford Hill, VT (www.ecbrownsnursery.com) and saw that new-to-me shrub, spicebush or sweet bubby, in bloom, and had to take one home. The blossoms are a deep dark red, globe-shaped and about 2 inches in diameter. According to Dirr’s book, it is considered hardy to Zone 4, but “-15 or -20 is the breakpoint … flowers occur on short shoots from leaf axils along the entire stem length, i.e. where buds are present; even if shoot tips are winter killed, the potential for good flowering is excellent.” So I am optimistic that it will survive and thrive for me.

After my sister, Ruth Anne Mitchell, died unexpectedly two years ago I planted some plants of dubious hardiness here in her honor. Ruth Anne was a risk taker – she was an intrepid international traveler who thought nothing of hiking a hundred mile through a war zone such as Liberia during the civil war there. While working for an international aid agency she was once captured by teenage rebels carrying automatic weapons and who were high on drugs. They thought she would be scared. Not so. She lectured them, and asked if they would treat their mothers like that. Chagrinned, they brought her to their adult leader who reprimanded them and then let her continue on her way.

Among the plants that I planted in memory of Ruth Anne that did not survive were bunchberry (Cornus canadensis), trailing arbutus (Epigea repens) and that yellow ladyslipper. I also planted 3 blue Himalayan poppies (Meconopsis betonicifolia ), and 2 died that first winter. The third bloomed but died the following winter. Undaunted, I bought 3 more from Cady’s Falls Nursery (www.cadysfallsnursery.com) in Morrisville, VT this year. That one successful poppy, with true sky-blue blossoms, gave me great joy, taught me where to plant it – and gave me the willingness to try again.

Of all the flowers I planted for Ruth Anne, the most successful was the umbrella plant (Darmera peltata). My bible of perennials, Steven Stills’ Manual of Herbaceous Ornamental Plants, lists it as only hardy in Zones 5-7 (minus 20 to zero in the coldest parts of winter). The first year after planting it limped along, but this spring it sent up numerous flower spikes with lovely pink flowers before the leaves appeared. And now those umbrella leaves are a foot across and the clump covers a 4-foot circle.

The key to out-of-zone success is getting the soil and sun requirements right for the plant. Acidity, drainage and exposure to cold winds really do make a difference. Even though the books by Dirr and Stills cost well over $100 for the pair, I think they are worth the investment: they tell you not only cold hardiness, they tell you what kind of soil is needed. I know the world wide web is supposed to have all answers, but I like an authoritative book that I can depend on.

Most nurseries have Dirr’s book on hand, and will let you read it before deciding if you should invest in a woody plant. Dirr’s book is very personal, with his strong feelings expressed, and anecdotes about where he has seen a particular plant growing. I use Stills’ book to tailor the soil for perennials at planting time: he details the fertility needed, so I know if I should add plenty of organic fertilizer, just a little, or none at all.

Take a good look at your own garden. Are you willing to try some new plants? I spent hours this past weekend pulling out the roots of Queen of the Prairie (Filipendula rubra) so that I could plant my new spicebush or ‘sweet bubby’. And if it doesn’t survive? Well, I’ll have a good place to try another interesting plant!

Henry Homeyer lives and gardens in Cornish Flat, NH. You may reach him at henry.homeyer@comcast.net or P.O. box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746.

Weather Worries – Not to Worry!

in Seasonal Tip
compost, mulch, tomato, vegetable gardening, water conservation

It seems as if the weather is getting more extreme: tornadoes, floods, drought, heat waves, cold spells. What’s a gardener to do? Well, stop worrying, for starters. Each year the weather is different – and most years we still have nice flowers, and eventually have the lettuce and tomato for a good sandwich. And unless you’re a commercial farmer, your life and livelihood will not be too adversely affected, even if the weather is bad. There are a few steps we can take to help our flowers and vegetables along, however.

Planting anything is best done on a cool, cloudy day – or even in a light sprinkle. If we’ve had a few days of rain, it’s better to wait for the soil to dry out a little before planting. Rototilling wet soil is definitely a no-no, and walking on wet soil can compact it, ruining soil structure.

Adding compost, or aged cow manure, will help any soil. If you have sandy soil, it will act as a sponge to hold moisture from percolating right through. If you have a clay soil, it will improve drainage and make the soil lighter and fluffier – and more receptive to roots. Avoid fresh cow or horse manure as it will introduce grass and weed seeds to your soil – those animals don’t digest all the seeds.

I planted my tomatoes on a warm dry day in early June, and we almost immediately got hit by a spell of days in the 90’s. I had grown these babies from seed, and hardened them off outside, but a big, leafy tomato can lose a lot of water in the hot sun when it’s 94. So I created some shade for my tomatoes by draping row cover over the tomato cages. It helped.

Row cover is a spun synthetic fabric that is used to keep insects off plants while allowing water vapor and sunshine to pass through. It also can keep a plant a few degrees warmer early or late in the season if draped right over it. Row cover comes in various weights, and I had some of the heaviest type. It did a good job of shading my plants when placed the cages (and kept in place with clothes pins). I also kept the soil well watered during the heat wave.

A few words about watering: I don’t like overhead sprinklers. Yes, they are easy to turn on and let the machine do the work. But they get the leaves of your plants wet, and that can encourage fungal diseases. Most fungi send out hyphae (root-like appendages) that pierce the leaf, allowing the fungus to infect the plant. Many need a moist leaf surface to do that. Watering in the evening with an overhead sprinkler moistens the leaves and makes them more susceptible.

I like watering with a watering wand. This is a nice 30-inch long metal handle with a watering rose on one end and a shut-off on the other. The brand I like best is Dramm. It sends out a nice gentle spray, even with the water pressure up fairly high. I find the less expensive watering devices send sharp sprays, which can damage the plants or wash away the soil. I like the watering wand because I can deliver water to the root zone while letting the tops stay dry.

Newly planted trees and shrubs need to be watered weekly, or even more often if the soil is sandy and temperatures are high. The most common cause of first-year death of trees is dehydration. But don’t just give your new tree a quick squirt. Time how long it takes for your hose to deliver 5 gallons of water into a bucket, and then make sure to spray long enough to deliver 5 gallons – in a nice wide circle around the tree. Watering the rootball is not enough – dry soil nearby will wick the water away, leaving the rootball dry in no time.

Many gardeners put down bark mulch in established perennial beds. This keeps down the weeds and holds in moisture. But if you add more mulch each year to pretty-up the beds, you can develop a layer of bark that is almost impermeable to rain. I find an inch to an inch-and-a-half of mulch is adequate. And I try to leave a little donut hole around the plant so that quick showers can deliver some water to the roots.

Recently I examined some maples that were dying in a parking lot – the top half of one was completely leafless, the others also showed some leaf loss. These trees were suffering from bark rot due to “mulch volcanoes”. Each had at least 6 inches of bark mulch right up against the trunk. I predict that all will be dead from bark rot within 2-3 years. And all will struggle getting any moisture. So be judicious in applying your mulch.

If we have another week of rainy weather, your vegetables like tomatoes may show yellowing leaves – a sign of stress. This occurs because normally plants pull up nitrogen and other minerals from the soil with water that is used to replace water lost to transpiration on sunny days – but not in rainy spells.  The solution: spray liquid fish fertilizer onto the leaves. The leaves will absorb the nitrogen and green up.

So don’t worry, be happy. No matter what the weather, your garden will (eventually) be just fine.

Henry’s new book is called Organic Gardening (not just) in the Northeast, a Hands-On, Month-by-Month Guide. Contact him at henry.homeyer@comcast.net or P.O. Box 364, Cornish Flat, NH 03746.

Seeds, they are amazing!

in Seasonal Tip
seed starting, seeds

Aren’t they amazing? You can grow a season of produce from a few seeds and flowers that last for months or years, even a tree. Every year now I’m heartened, surprised, encouraged, and approach each seed I’m planting with awe and respect. I still buy too many and store them from year to year with desiccant. I’ve featured this year’s new supply of tomato seed in the kitchen, so I’ll be reminded to start them in the trays of the dehydrator by the Ides of March. Do you know this trick? The dehydrator I use to dry fruit has become the best seed starter I’ve known. It provides regular, but gentle, heat to sprout seed as long as I keep them moist. It’s really quite wonderful. The trays are easily transportable, so I can move them around the house as necessary to encourage the seedlings with light. When they show true leaves, I transplant them to individual pots or cells.

You must have your seed by now. Where did you buy it? My tried and true source is Pinetree Seeds, not far from their major, and big, competitor, Johnny’s Seeds. The Pinetree people seem like friendly neighbors or peace-man hippies, or some combo. I mean, honestly, they have soap making supplies and curious, small publications like Simple Home Repairs. They also carry a wide array of gardening products, including my favorite cultivating tool. And seed starting supplies, if you’re in the market.

How viable are last year’s seeds? That depends on how well you’ve stored them. Keep them dry and in the dark. Most seed, I’ve found, is at least 60%  viable 1-3 years after it’s produced. Starting seed in a warm environment is almost always recommended. There are a few species that require chilling to break seed dormancy, like the stunning Datura. If you’re like me, you’ve got a storage box of some kind, filled with seeds from garden dreams past whose packages have yet to be opened. Well, this year, I’m opening them all and tossing them into the warm dirt come May to see what happens. I’m also using the “good china” for every day dinners.

So what will you start this year? I’m especially interested in your trials of organic seed and seed suitable to our Northeast climate. Please share your experience. Our best-loved teachers share their wisdom and the GreenYankee community is like talking with a friendly neighbor over the fence. Let me know or trade some seed in our Seed Exchange. Just click on the Barter link in the top menu. Happy sewing!

Putting Away Garden Tools

in Seasonal Tip
cleaning, oil, sharpening, tools

By now most of us have put our gardens to bed. I’ve yanked the vegetable carcasses from my garden and piled the decaying bodies on the compost pile. I’ve cut down many of my perennial flowers, although I’ve left a few to stand proud in winter and offer seeds to the finches and chickadees.  I’ve pulled some of the weeds in my flower beds, and pretty much gotten them out of the vegetable garden. I’m in the process of chopping up the leaves on the lawn, and will rake them onto a big blue tarp on the next sunny day and use them as a winter blanket in the vegetable garden.

What I have not done, and am betting you have not done either, is to get my tools ready for winter. It’s always the last thing I do before my annual hibernation. This is a good time to work on your tools.

linseed oil

As a man of certain age – past 60 that is – most of my tools have wooden handles. Yes, I have a few new fiberglass-handled tools, but many of my tools were used by my grandfather and/or my parents before me. I treasure them knowing that 3 generations of sweat has seeped into the wood, giving the tools a nice dark polished look. That patina is enhanced by an annual application of boiled linseed oil.

Late each fall I take some time to polish the wooden handles of my hand tools and sharpen the blades, where appropriate. Using medium to fine grit sandpaper I rub out any rough spots or potential splinters on the wooden handles. Then I polish the handles a little more with some fine steel wool. Lastly, I use a paintbrush to apply linseed oil and let it soak in. That keeps the handles from drying out – and a well oiled handle rarely breaks or gives splinters.

My father always painted some red “Rustoleum” paint on the metal parts of garden tools to make them easier to find and to identify them as his. I found one of his old shovels in the back of the barn this year and saw that the handle was dry and cracked – I had not used it or maintained it in years. I sandpapered the many rough spots before polishing with steel wool and the applying 3 coats of linseed oil. I just kept reapplying the oil until it stopped soaking in.

sharpening

Hoes and shovels work best when kept sharp. You can sharpen them on a bench grinder or with a rough file or a whetstone. I have a grinder with a stone wheel, but rarely use it – it’s too easy to take off too much metal. Before sharpening  a tool, study the angle of the blade – hoes and shovels are only sharpened on one side (the inside) and all you need to do is mimic the original angle, drawing the stone or file over the blade in consistent, even strokes.

cleaning

A wire brush is a good tool for cleaning up the metal blades of tools. I like to use a rag with a little linseed oil on it to oil the metal. Something like WD-40 would work, too, and even get off some rust, but I don’t particularly want to introduce chemicals and petroleum products to my soil next spring – even in small quantities.

Most hand tools nowadays have plastic handles that require no maintenance, and edges of steel so tough that sharpening is not required. But it makes sense to wipe off accumulated grime with a moist cloth and get any dirt of the blades.

Lawnmowers, chain saws and string trimmer

Lawnmowers, chain saws and string trimmers can use a little maintenance at this time of the year, too. Even though gas stabilizers are sold, most small engine mechanics I have spoken to suggest just running your machines until all the gas is used up rather than introducing an additive. That requires some planning, especially for riding mowers that can hold lots of gas. But gas loses some of its oomph over the winter – the volatile elements evaporate and escape, so it is best of empty the tank.

If you can tip your mower on its side to clean out the accumulated grass that is attached to the mower deck, great. I know that some mowers also have ports where you can attach a hose to blast the grass off (my riding mower came with one) but I find they don’t really do the job – especially if you don’t do it every time you use the machine. Even reaching under the mower when it is off and cold and pulling out the grass helps, or scraping with a putty knife. What you don’t want is accumulated gunk that holds moisture, causing your mower to rust.

Cleaning up my machines and tools is not very high on my list of fun things to do on a Saturday morning. But I recognize that doing so will extend their lives and, for wood-handled tools, add to my enjoyment of them next spring. So have at it. Your grandchildren may use some of your tools one day – if you keep them well maintained.

Pruning Trees and Shrubs Before Winter Sets In

in Gardening Guy: Henry Homeyer, Seasonal Tip
fall, pruning, winter

Fall is here, and winter is not far behind. I’ve seen the odd flurry and scraped frost from my windshield. The sun is slow to get above the hills in the morning and quick to disappear in the afternoon. The sky is often gray and gloomy. These things take their toll on the spirits of gardeners like me. So I plant bulbs and prune. Both lift my spirits.

On a recent drizzly afternoon I tackled two pruning projects: a peegee hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) loaded with spent blossoms, and a seven-son flower tree (Heptacodium miconioides) that has, in recent years, been reaching for the sky and rubbing up against my house. Both needed immediate attention. I tackled the wayward tree first.

seven-son flower tree

The seven-son flower tree is a relatively recent re-introduction to the United States, landing here in 1980 (a few plants were brought here in 1907 but were never dispersed). For me it is a fast-growing medium-sized tree with beautiful shaggy bark; it blooms in the fall (late August to October), though the blossoms are not big and prominent the way rhododendrons or magnolias are. Individual flowers are just an inch or so across, but bloom on panicles that contain 7 flowers, making a nice understated display. I like it primarily for the bark in winter, and the fact that it blooms at a time when little else is blooming.

According to my favorite book on trees by Michael Dirr, Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, the rate of growth of the seven-son flower tree is medium and it is only hardy to Zone 5 (minus 20 in winter). Yet I have seen branches on my tree grow 5 feet or more in a year, and every year my tree sees temperatures of minus 25 – with no ill effect. I know of specimens that have survived minus 30 and colder. My specimen had not been pruned in a few years, and had gotten too tall and too close to the house. I studied the tree carefully, imagining what it would be like if I cut off this branch or that. I decided to proceed cautiously. I leaned my ladder against it and climbed up 10 feet or more on the 25-foot tall tree. I cut off a long shoot an inch in diameter shooting upwards toward the sky and rubbing against the house.

I got down and looked at what I had done. So far, so good. I went back up and took off another good-sized, upward-reaching branch. I studied my tree again. Finally I sliced through the 2-3 inch diameter branch that supported, among others, the two branches I had just cut off. That looked splendid. I continued, getting bolder. By the time I was done, I had cut off anything that reached for the sky, and left only those branches that set off on a 45 degree angle or drooped a little. I had decided on the shape and height I wanted, and pruned accordingly. I expect that next summer it will send more vertical shoots, but I won’t let them get so big.

my peegee hydrangea

My peegee hydrangea had bloomed ferociously this summer, so much so that many branches were bent down with the weight – even on a dry day. Snow or ice would certainly cause broken limbs. I needed to cut off many of the spent blossoms (called panicles by botanists) and shape the bush so that the limbs would not get long and gangly next summer.

Like most late-blooming woody plants, hydrangeas like this one bloom on new wood. That means that this year’s blossoms appear on shoots that grew this year, not last year. Cutting branches stimulates new growth, so it is important to cut off stems well back from the blossoms. When you make a pruning cut on a peegee hydrangea, the stem generally will send out two new shoots the following year from the buds already present. If you were to cut just behind the blossom, there would be 2 new shoots next year starting where this year‘s blossom was – and the branch would not be able to support the new growth, which would flop. So I carefully removed branches back to older, sturdier branches. I left a few panicles on for winter interest.

deciduous hardwoods

So what trees and shrubs should you be pruning at this time of year? Deciduous hardwoods like maples, oaks and ash are fine. Evergreens should not be pruned now – prune pines, hemlocks and spruce right after they put on their new growth in early summer. You can prune any shrub now, but the spring-bloomers will lose some blossoms if you prune them now; they have already set their blossom buds for next year. That said, I am pruning lilacs now – and they are early bloomers. Why? Because I have time to do it, lilacs grow vigorously and much of what I am removing is just clutter. Lilacs get too dense and mess if left alone.

Remember that pruning is not surgery: it’s more like giving a haircut. Don’t worry about doing damage to your woody plants. Doing nothing is often worse than cutting off a branch that might better have been left on. Branches will always grow back – and pruning a tree or shrub is always good for the spirits on these short autumn days.

Henry Homeyer’s Web site is www.Gardening-Guy.com.